Kayak Repair

How To Store Your Ocean Kayak

Each recreational Ocean Kayak comes with a three year, no nonsense warranty. With proper care and treatment, your boat should offer many carefree years of use. On occasion, a boat may need minor repairs. Many Ocean Kayak dealers can provide expert repair service or, by following the directions below, most of these repairs can be done at home. Use the table on the left to diagnose your problem.

Repair instructions are below. If at any point during a repair you encounter problems, please contact us for assistance.

WARNING: Repairing boats is a delicate procedure. Be cautious when heating any material on or around a boat. If, at any point, the boat begins to melt and give way, STOP! Allow the boat to cool before attempting to heat again. SOME REPAIRS MAY BE BETTER MADE BY YOUR PROFESSIONAL PADDLESPORTS SHOP.

PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE SOLUTION/REPAIR

Water in the boat
  • Bow drain plug not in
  • Rough water (i.e. stud)
  • Crack or puncture in boat
  • Large hole in boat
  • Leaking hatch

Broken strap eye
  • Defective strap eye

Damaged Strip
  • Abrasion or cut in strap

Dent in boat
  • Improper storage
  • Hard impact

Pulled out handle
  • Placing too much tension on handle (i.e., pulling on boat when tied down, hanging by handles to store)

WELDING

TOOLS REQUIRED: Welding heat gun with reducing nozzle, gloves, rasp or Surform (scraping device found in most hardware stores), wire cutters, plastic polyethylene weld rod (available from Ocean Kayak), and hatch cut-outs (available from Ocean Kayak). Contact customer service for weld rod and hatch cut-outs and other questions at 800-8-KAYAKS.

We recommend you practice welding several times on hatch cut-outs before attempting repairs on a boat. If at any point during welding, the boat begins to melt and give way, stop welding, and immediately remove the heat. Allow the boat to fully cool before attempting to weld again.

Cracks
Pre-heat the first 1/4" of a weld rod with the welding heat gun. The rod itself should be at a visible melt (sweaty and limp). Starting 1/4" to 1/2" before the crack, lay the weld rod onto the plastic. Aim the reducing nozzle at the base of the weld rod, and hold the end of the heat gun 1" to 2" from the plastic. (This should melt the weld rod, while applying some heat to the boat itself.) Angle the weld rod back away from the heat gun (see diagram).

Slowly start pushing the weld rod toward the crack. When the boat and the weld rod melt together well, there will be a slight bead of plastic forced in front of the weld rod as it is pushed into the crack. Weld the crack closed and extend the weld 1/4" to 1/2" beyond the end of the crack. Cut the remaining weld rod off with a pair of wire cutters. With gloved hands, smooth and meld the weld rod and boat. Allow the boat to cool fully. Test the quality of the weld by taking a flat blade screwdriver and attempt to pry up the weld rod. If the rod comes up, attempt the weld again. If the rod will not pull up, the boat and weld rod have blended to a solid weld. Clean and flatten the weld with a rasp or Surform.

Patch
Welding a patch is similar to welding a crack. Cut the patch (taken from the hatch cut-outs) to extend past the edges of the hole. Round the corners of the patch. The patch can be made to conform to the shape of the boat by heating it all over with a heat gun and then bending it to match the shape of the boat. Weld the patch in place, blending the patch material, weld rod, and boat. Follow the same directions as above.

Small Holes
To fill small holes, such as rivet holes, heat the end of the weld rod to a visible melt. Insert the end into the hole and begin to twist the rod. Continue to apply heat to the weld rod just above the boat. Twist the weld rod so that it fills the hole. Cut the remaining weld rod off with wire cutters. Smooth and flatten the area with gloved hands.

PULLED HANDLE

Trim any excess plastic from the area. Melt the weld rod and fully fill the area to rebuild the 'lip'. Form the lip with gloved hands. Allow to cool. Re-drill the hole for the cord with a 5/16" drill bit. Insert the cord and tie handle. The repaired handle will hold the weight of the boat, but will not take a great deal of additional strain.

RE-DRILLING RIVETS

TOOLS REQUIRED: Drill, 13/64" drill bit, needle nose pliers, cherry rivets, center punch, and cherry rivet gun.

If a part that is riveted to the boat needs to be replaced, the rivet needs to be drilled out. Using the center punch, punch the center of the rivet down. This will provide a pilot hole to make the drilling operation easier. Then, using the 13/64" drill bit, drill straight down on the center of the rivet (small silver center). If the outer black disk begins to spin, hold it in place with the needle nose pliers. Once the hole is drilled out, a new rivet may then be attached. Check to make sure the rivet fits snugly in the hole. If it does not, refill the hole (see WELDING - Small Holes) and re-drill the hole with a 13/64" drill bit. Next, replace the broken part. If attaching a strap, be sure to use a washer between the rivet and the strap.

DENT REPAIR

TOOLS REQUIRED: Welding heat gun, gloves, and small suction cups.

Often the dents in a boat will pop out on their own or with a little heat, such as setting the boat outside on a warm, sunny day or using a hair dryer. If the dents will not come out, additional heat will have to be applied. If the dent can be reached from inside the boat, apply heat until the boat is just too hot to touch. Wearing gloves, press the dent from the inside of the boat. If the boat does not have hatches and/or the dented area cannot be reached from inside, small suction cups may be used to pull out the dent. Several may be needed for a large dent. Allow the boat to cool in the 'pushed out' position.

LEAKING HATCHES

TOOLS REQUIRED: (6" or 8" Hatch): Silicone and new "O" ring (for 6" hatch only).

First attempt to fix the leak by applying additional silicone around the inside and outside edges of the hatches. If this does not fix the leak, check the seal around the hatch opening. In a 6" hatch, check the threads of the lid and be sure they are smooth and even. In an 6" hatch, be sure the black "O" ring is in good shape, if not, replace the "O" ring. If these solutions do not work, and the hatch is still leaking, it may have to be replaced. Contact Ocean Kayak for further instructions.

Remember, it's perfectly normal to get a cup or two of water in your kayak, especially if you've been paddling it in high surf. If your kayak is filling up with more than a few cups of water, contact your nearest dealer or call 1-800-8-KAYAKS.